A, Apart from the usual suspects (Fuse box under the seat) be aware there is a hidden fuse under the rear left hand sub frame rail that may have blown… fiendish!!!!
A, Check the three pin block connector at the rear is sound, check clean and crimp the connections on coil 1. A DIY repair on the clock is possible but the only way in is via removal of the chrome bezel. Mind you at this stage you have nothing to loose really.
A, The plunger on the side stand switch is probably sticking, fix a spray tube to a can of WD40 and spray up the rubber boot. I have been known to use pliers to assist in loosening the switch, ensure the action of the plunger is smooth and free before turning your back on this one.
A, This could be the alternator impeller working loose, to prove it have your bike ticking over and switch the lights on. If the rattle reduces this is your problem. Sort it quick if you can, if you don’t you’ll need a new alternator shaft assembly, be very careful not to pull on the alternator shaft one false move could result in a case split to recover bits!
A, Most probably the crank position sensor (sometimes called the ignition pick up coil) located behind the right hand side front engine cover. This one bit me!
A, A crankcase breather feeds into the air box from the clutch cover, some residue is expected but if the air filter is clogged it may cause negative pressure in the air box and draw some oil from the crankcase. Also it’s possible that the oil filter is clogged but that is much more unlikely and would be the symptom of a bigger problem.
A, Check oil level and condition for water content to eliminate possible head gasket failure. Check the tell tale hole under the water pump housing to see if the water pump seal has failed. Also ensure the fan cuts in and the thermostat works.
A, They all do that sir… It’s vibration Triumph tried to eliminate it but decided to call it character in the end!! Some people have suggested replacing the clock mount rubbers.
A, The sprag clutch on the way out or completely dead. NOT GOOD as to fix this it means getting the motor out and splitting the cases to get access. Earlier T3 engines (Circa ’94 and older) with the long rectangular access hatch to the rear can be fixed with the motor in place.
A, Bleed the clutch, it’s also worth pumping the slave cylinder out to clean the grunge from behind it, fit a new gear change lever bush, check chain slack and change your oil if not done recently.
A, The witches hat fuel filters are clogged at the fuel hose unions on the carbs. Alternatively coil failure (1 or more) could be looming it’s head. Coil failure will quite often clear as you power through past 5K or more where as fuel starve will remain.
A, If the fuel tap is left in prime or is faulty along with a float valve in a carb is leaking then fuel will flow freely and fill the air box and engine! Do not try and start the bike at this stage for fear of hydraulic lock. First thing to do is check your oil level. If it’s high and smells of fuel disconnect the tank, fix the carbs and or the fuel tap and drain and replace engine oil and filter. Better safe than sorry!
A, The plastic knob may have cracked at the back is no longer gripping the selector shaft on the fuel tap. Fit a new one or as a preventative measure for the future fill the voids in the rear of the knob with epoxy resin.
A, If the tank has been off or disturbed check the small hose coming directly out the back of the fuel tap and runs to the top of carb 1 (carb vacuum hose). Make sure it has not been pinchedagainst the frame, better still replace the tube with thick walled fuel hose to help prevent this happening again.
